RV Water Heater Thermostats, Elements & Parts

Check the water heater brand and model number on the unit plate (common manufacturers include Suburban and others), measure the element access type (anode/side or bottom) and element length/diameter, and match voltage (120V or 12V/LP systems) and wattage to the original specifications

If you have no heat or inconsistent temperatures, test the element for continuity and the thermostat for proper switching; replace the part that fails testing, but replacing both together is reasonable if the unit is aged or corroded to avoid repeat labor

Replacement thermostats and elements typically range from budget options under $50 to higher-quality OEM-style parts above $100; differences include materials (stainless vs. plated), manufacturer reputation, and included seals or thermostats

Drain and flush the tank regularly to reduce mineral buildup, inspect and replace the anode rod as needed, check electrical connections for corrosion, and test components annually to catch failures early

Many replacements are DIY-accessible with basic tools, but always disconnect shore power and propane, drain the water heater, relieve pressure, and follow torque and gasket recommendations; if unsure about gas or electrical systems, consult a qualified technician

Use a multimeter to check an element for continuity and resistance within the manufacturer's expected range and test thermostats for proper open/closed contacts at ambient and hot temperatures; also inspect for visible corrosion or burns

Confirm flange diameter, thread type, element length, wattage/voltage, and thermostat sensor placement; aftermarket parts may fit physically but differ in electrical ratings or sensor position, affecting performance or warranty coverage