Circular Saw Blades

Match the blade diameter and arbor hole to your saw’s specifications listed in the owner's manual; common diameters are 7-1/4" for portable saws and 10" or 12" for table or miter saws, and some blades include reducer rings to fit different arbor sizes

For crosscutting wood and plywood choose blades with higher tooth counts (60–80+ TPI for fine cuts) and alternating top bevel (ATB) teeth; for ripping lumber use low-tooth-count blades (24–30 teeth) with flat-top grind (FTG); for non-ferrous metal use blades specifically labeled for metal with appropriate carbide tips and higher tooth counts

Carbide-tipped blades retain sharpness longer and cut faster with cleaner edges, making them suited for frequent use and tougher materials; full-steel or high-speed steel blades are cheaper but dull faster and are best for occasional light-duty cuts

A thin kerf removes less material and reduces motor load while a full kerf offers more stability; anti-vibration slots or expansion cuts reduce noise and wobble for cleaner cuts; coatings (like anti-resin or non-stick) help repel pitch buildup and can extend cutting performance

Keep blades clean of pitch and resin using a blade-safe cleaner, avoid overheating by using the correct speed and feed rate, inspect for damaged or missing teeth before use, and store blades flat or hung in a dry place to prevent warping and corrosion

Have carbide-tipped blades professionally sharpened when teeth are intact but dull for cost-effective renewed performance; replace blades if teeth are chipped/missing, the carbide tips are worn away, or if repeated sharpening would leave too little material on the tips

Always unplug the saw or remove the battery before changing blades, use proper blade guards and a riving knife where applicable, wear eye protection and hearing protection, and ensure the blade is properly tightened and rated for the saw’s RPM before cutting